Thursday, August 23, 2012

The Southern Coast

On our second to last day in Iceland, we drove along the southern coast as far as Vik, and saw lots of cool things!

My sister and I at a glacier

Kenio Crater

Seljalandfoss

Behind the waterfall!

Puffins!  They were supposed to have left by now, but not these!

Iceland has tons of rainbows on drizzly days

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Magical Lobster Soup

The second half of my family's Icelandic adventure was spent in Stokkseyri, south of Reykjavik, which boasts a fine seafood restaurant.  Its lobster soup is especially well-known, and my family checked their website to see if they did take out.  We found a very interesting English translation of the menu (my comments in italics):

----------------------------
Fjorubordid
and the sea said ok


Have you strolled along the black sand on Stokkseyri´s beach? Have you been spellbound by the white foaming waves out by the horizon and let the silvery waves lapping at the shoreline chase and tease you? Under a blue-pink sky mirrored in the water, this surface tempts and draws, yet is the harrowing limit of our human world. It´s where golden lobsters hook their claws together and dance a belly dance while mermaids serve tables amongst shrimp wrapped in seaweed, clapping shellfish and inquisitive haddock. This is a magic moment carrying you away to an intoxicated state of well-being and lust. Your greatest desire is to lick on lobster in garlic butter, gulp down the soup that has been lovingly pampered – little changed through the years.

The soup is magical. It is suitable for numerous occasions and happy moments on ordinary days, but the seashore takes no responsibility for consequences or stirring adventures that could result from ingesting it. It has a will of its own and, as such, it is risky for those who don´t want to venture beyond the average. This is the most famous lobster soup in the Republic of Iceland, prepared by handsome cooks who step naked out of the ocean at Stokkseyri with their catch: the Plumpest lobsters who desire only one thing – to get onto dry land. Adventurous creatures from the ocean world want to join us in just the same way as we want to join them in the depths.

People have struggled against storm after storm to get here and enjoy this soup. The desire for it can be so strong that rational thinking simply blows away with the wind. Below the black rock face at the Þrengsli mountain pass, between mountain vistas, under the stars, people rush toward the sea to sit down with our guests and party-happy ghosts, surrounded by some tickling pleasure coming from magical bowls at the Seashore, where a thousand candles cast their glow on weathered faces and loving wine skins. Matarást, the Icelandic expression for “love of food” takes on a new meaning.

The Seashore Restaurant in the village of Stokkseyri is an enchanted place of delight. People have to tear themselves away from it – but that´s alright. There´s only positive magic inside, tickling both stomach and soul. And now the magic has been sealed into jars for those who struggle with an irresistible craving for this great seafood delicacy from Icelandic waters, even when they´re unfortunate enough to be not close to the restaurant. Enjoy! Remember to live life to the fullest, and enjoy every pleasure and suspense that a good day brings.

---------------------

Where to start... the sea only said "ok"?  Not "yes" or something more enthusiastic?  "Ok" sounds like the sea really doesn't want to do anything but doesn't see a way out of it.

I have never seen lobsters do a belly dance.  I don't think I want to.

What sort of stirring adventures are we talking about here?  Is this a disclaimer absolving the restaurant of responsibility should their soup give you food poisoning?  Cause that's what it sounds like.

Handsome naked cooks?  Oh my.  I'm afraid I didn't see any of those in Stokkseyri.  It doesn't seem like a very practical way to catch lobster, and believe, the North Atlantic is cold.  Really cold.  Skinny dipping in it does not sound healthy.

I think the party-happy ghosts refers to the neighboring "Ghosts, Elves, and Trolls" Museum.  I'm not sure why they're party happy.  YOLO (you only live once)?  That doesn't make any sense.

Again with the tickling stomachs.  If my stomach ever tickles, I make a mad dash for the bathroom.  Stomachs should never tickle.

Literary criticisms aside, it was actually very good lobster soup.  Very different from the New England soup I know.  I would recommend it!

Monday, August 20, 2012

The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is the standard tourist route from Reykjavik, hitting three major attractions and is something one must do in Iceland!  We completed the circle (more like a triangle for us, since we didn't start in Reykjavik) and the sights were impressive!  The first was Thingvellir, the location of Iceland's parliament, first formed around 1000AD.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is possibly the oldest legislative body in Europe.  Considering Iceland was an inhospitable island filled with Vikings, it's remarkable how peacefully governing occurred!  Instead of a king, 51 representatives from across the country gathered at Thingvellir every year in a rift in the land, with fresh water and lots of shelter.
Thingvellir
One person was the Lawspeaker, and he would stand up on a certain rock and recite the laws of the land.  This would take a couple days, then the Thing (as they called their parliament) would debate to add or change laws.  During this time, people built huts in the rift and lots of trading, celebrating, inflicting punishments on criminals, and arranging marriages happened.

The next stop on the Golden Circle is Geysir, the geyser after which all others are named.  Geysir itself isn't so active any more, but its next door neighbor erupts every five minutes or so, drenching tourists standing downwind! (not us, luckily)
Geysir
 Finally, we visited Gullfoss, an impressive waterfall.  Gullfoss means "golden waterfall," which could derive either from its muddy yellow glacial waters, its frequent rainbows, or legends of greedy men tossing their riches down the river to prevent others from having them.  The waterfalls were performing nicely, but there was a strong wind which made us rather damp.
Gullfoss
Despite being crowded, the Golden Circle was a lot of fun and well worth the trip!  I'm a bit behind in my posting, but soon there will be tales of puffins, waterfalls you can go behind, "magical" lobster soup, glaciers, and a trip into Reykjavik that involved sampling whale (not the endangered kind, I promise!) In the mean time, I've got to get ready to leave - I fly back to Wisconsin tomorrow!  Hooray!

Friday, August 17, 2012

Myvatn, One Last Time

It was a bittersweet farewell to Myvatn as I got to show my family around!

Giving a tour of the research station

My sister and her new friend at the Vogafjos Cafe


Myvatn Nature Baths

A rarer sight - a red-throated diver at the bird sanctuary
Then I made the drive from Myvatn to Akureyri for the last time.  I will miss Myvatn and I hope to go back some day!

Asbyrgi-Dettifoss

Here's some belated picture posting - Asbyrgi and Dettifoss are very different from the places I've been this summer and very cool!

Pond at the base of Asbyrgi

Puffins at some bird cliffs!

Asbyrgi

I finally made it to Dettifoss!

Thursday, August 16, 2012

The Blaa Kannan

My sister and I visited a cafe called the Blaa Kannan (also known as the unofficial Akureyri office of the Myvatn research station) one evening.  It is a very lovely cafe and my sister liked it a lot, too.



mmmm!

Very pretty decor!

Hverfjall

I do have some pictures I haven't shown yet - on my last night in Myvatn, I climbed the crater Hverfjall.  It is a tephra ring which was formed in one massive steam explosion.

The climb up was pretty steep and gravelly!

Looking into the crater

Sunset from Hverfjall